2021 Dm Guiberteau Saumur Rouge Les Chapaudaises, Loire Valley

In 2021, the Guiberteau family lost 40% of the crop of this cuvée due to frost. Evoking aromas of iris, peony, dark wild berries, spices and licorice, the 2021 Les Chapaudaises is medium-bodied, perfectly balanced, seamless and satiny with a fleshy core of fruit and a gentle austerity in the finish. Matured only in used barrels due to frost, this wine is approachable now but can evolve gracefully.

92 points Yohan Costaing robertparker.com

100% Cabernet Franc. Les Chapaudaises is in the Bizay terroir, in the small village of Épieds, within half a kilometre of Saumur’s prized hill of Brézé. It’s next to Guiberteau’s monopole Clos de Guichaux, on the same sandy tuffeau limestone. The vines are a mix of Chenin Blanc and old-vine Cabernet Franc. One hectare of the Chenin is leased to Romain’s right-hand man, Brendan Stater-West, with the remaining Chenin finding its way into the Saumur Blanc.

It’s the 1948-planted Cabernet Franc that is Guiberteau’s prize here. The fruit was destemmed and fermented spontaneously in concrete. The wine aged in conical Rousseau vats for one year before resting in a tank for six months. Here, the nose offers a lovely blend of dark cherries, a nip of liquorice and rosemary/roasted herbal notes. The palate is neat and generous, and while tannins are there, they are super-fine and polished. You could call it a Pinot-like vintage for this impressive vineyard.