2020 Dm Guiberteau Saumur Rouge Brézé Les Arboises, Loire Valley

A delicately dark, somber bouquet prefaces the 2020 Les Arboises, a wine with aromas of spices, licorice, pencil lead and coniferous forest. It’s medium to full-bodied, broad and deep, with a fleshy core of fruit and impeccable balance. A five- to eight-year cellar period is recommended to enhance its qualities.

94 points Yohan Costaing robertparker.com

100% Cabernet Franc. Les Arboises is a subsection of the limestone-dominant Brézé hill. This is Guiberteau’s top red from a renowned red terroir. The monopole parcel was planted in 1957 on a rocky, chalky site and produces super-graceful, mineral expressions of Saumur. The fruit is fully destemmed and naturally fermented in concrete before resting for 18 months in new, one-, two- and three-year-old barrels. Guiberteau used about 40% new barrels in 2020. He ages this cuvée for longer than his other reds—both in barrel and bottle—feeling this site’s more angular tannins require extra refinement.

In contrast to Les Chapaudaises, it offers not only the density of the vintage but also more barrel spice and chiselled length. It’s complex, assertive, and tightly coiled—a wine that begs for air, a big glass and a hearty, meaty food match. It’s impressive now (especially after a 30-minute decant) but will be brillint with another five to 10 years in the cellar.