2021 Dominique Portet Brut Nature, Yarra Valley

Bright, light yellow colour; there are straw/hay and lightly toasty aromas, a whiff of cracked yeast, while the palate is creamy on entry, then dry and high-acid and just a little strident in its tartness. Food would work well with this, to soak up the acidity. A well-made blanc de blancs style that could take a bit of ageing too. 13 Feb 2025 Drink 2025–2030

90 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

Few sparkling wines from the Yarra Valley carry quite the same sense of lineage as Dominique Portet Brut Nature. Dominique Portet himself represents a tenth generation of a Bordeaux winemaking family, bringing centuries of savoir faire to Australian soils when he established the winery in the late 1990s. The cool, elevated vineyards around the Yarra provide ideal conditions for crafting refined méthode traditionnelle sparkling wines, where long ripening seasons build flavour while preserving the crisp acidity essential for structure and longevity. This zero dosage release reflects a philosophy of purity and precision, allowing fruit expression and site character to take centre stage.

Pale straw with silver reflections, the wine streams with fine, persistent bubbles. Aromas are clean and inviting with green apple, lemon zest and white nectarine layered alongside toasted brioche, almond meal and a subtle chalk dust minerality. There is an understated savoury complexity that develops gently in the glass. On the palate it feels vibrant and linear, citrus and orchard fruit framed by a creamy yet tightly wound mousse. The absence of dosage gives a refreshing, dry finish that lingers with hints of sea spray and gentle spice.

This is a sparkling that feels perfectly at home at the table or as a lively aperitif. Fresh oysters, tempura vegetables, grilled calamari or even salty potato crisps make ideal companions. It also suits those simple celebratory moments when a crisp, cleansing glass is exactly what is needed. Drinking beautifully now for its energy and clarity yet capable of developing extra nutty nuance over the next four to six years. A stylish and authentic Yarra Valley Brut Nature that honours both French heritage and modern Australian finesse.