2021 Jean-Marc et Thomas Bouley Bourgogne Aligote, Burgundy

Jean-Marc Bouley and his son Thomas have quietly built one of the Côte de Beaune’s most exciting domaines, based in Volnay and increasingly coveted by Burgundy collectors. Thomas took full control of the estate in 2012, bringing meticulous vineyard work and an exceptionally sensitive touch in the cellar. Even the humble Bourgogne Aligoté receives serious attention here, turning Burgundy’s often-overlooked white variety into something vibrant, distinctive and thoroughly compelling.

Aligoté naturally brings more cut and citrus drive than the richer whites of the Côte d’Or, and the 2021 vintage plays beautifully to those strengths. A cool, challenging growing season produced wines with bright acidity, modest alcohol and terrific aromatic freshness. Careful handling keeps the wine energetic and transparent, with its stony Burgundy character allowed to shine rather than being dressed up with unnecessary weight.

Pale straw with flashes of green, the nose is wonderfully fresh: lemon zest, green apple and crunchy pear mingle with white flowers, fresh almond and crushed stone. The palate is taut and mouthwatering, with citrus and crisp orchard fruit riding on bright acidity. There’s a subtle chalky texture through the middle, followed by grapefruit peel, salted almond and a cool, stony finish that makes another sip almost compulsory.

This is begging for a dozen oysters, gougères straight from the oven, jambon persillé, grilled sardines with lemon or goat’s cheese on warm sourdough. And, naturally, Aligoté is the traditional base for a Kir — although with a bottle this good, pouring crème de cassis into it might earn you a stern look.