2021 Kay Brothers Cuthbert Cabernet Sauvignon, McLaren Vale

This is the 10th bottling of this wine, which honours Cuthbert ‘Cud’ Kay. Modest of alcohol, by regional standards, and raised in French oak hogsheads, this is flavourful though with a relatively elegant pitch in terms of weight, of heft. It’s still packed with signature house and varietal intensity in blackberry, cassis, mulberry, bay laurel, clove, anise, tobacco, iodine and a certain rugged earthiness. Tannins are aptly insistent, drive and length impeccable. Patience, however, is required.

95 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au