2021 Kumeu River Ray's Road Pinot Noir, Hawke's Bay

An attractive red with black cherry, dried strawberry and peach skin aromas and flavors. Medium-bodied with firm tannins and a linear finish. Hints of tobacco, flint and orange peel to the dark fruit. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

94 points jamessuckling.com

There’s a forward hue – some bricking yet garnet throughout. Spicy, with cardamom, a touch vegetal/sappy, earthy and savoury with porcini powder and chinotto. Stemmy and tart with morello and red cherries. Structured yet mid-weighted, with the prominent acidity nestled into lean-ish raw silk tannins.

91 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Kumeu River Ray’s Road Pinot Noir is one of New Zealand’s most intriguing and quietly impressive Pinot Noirs, grown far from the estate’s Auckland home in the warm but wind influenced Gimblett Gravels of Hawke’s Bay. Ray’s Road is a special vineyard planted on free draining greywacke stones and gravel, where low fertility soils force the vines to dig deep, producing fruit with concentration, savoury depth and naturally fine tannins.

Kumeu River is the Brajkovich family’s estate, one of the great names of New Zealand wine. Known worldwide for their Burgundian inspired Chardonnays, they bring the same meticulous vineyard work and gentle winemaking to Pinot Noir. Ray’s Road has become their flagship red site, producing wines that balance ripeness with structure and finesse.

In the glass, this Pinot Noir shows dark cherry, plum and blackberry, layered with dried herbs, subtle spice and an underlying savoury, almost ironstone character from the stony soils. The palate is medium bodied but tightly focused, with fine tannins and fresh acidity giving it real energy and length. It has depth without heaviness, and a distinctly Hawke’s Bay feel that sets it apart from the country’s more delicate southern Pinots.

This is a wonderful food wine. Roast duck, lamb, grilled mushrooms, pork with herbs or dishes cooked over charcoal all work beautifully, echoing its savoury complexity.

Kumeu River Ray’s Road Pinot Noir drinks well now with a little air, but it will continue to evolve over ten to fifteen years, gaining more earthy and spicy complexity as it matures. It is a compelling and original expression of Pinot Noir that shows just how versatile New Zealand terroir can be.