2021 Torre de Oña Rioja El Camino, Rioja

100 points La Guía Proensa

100 points Vivir el Vino

The unnamed wine I tasted last year under the generic name Viñedos Artesanales has finally been released as the 2021 El Camino, which comes from three plots of old head-pruned vines planted 81 years ago with Tempranillo and 3% other varieties, including Mazuelo, Garnacha and Viura. The vines are in El Pisón, La Revilla and Las Naves lieux-dits of the village of Elvillar. The destemmed grapes fermented in the new winery that was built for this range, Viñedos Artesanales, in small troncoconic stainless steel vats, and the wine matured in 500-liter French oak barrels for 14 months, including malolactic. Using larger barrels means the wine has to be sold as generic, or joven; it cannot be sold as Reserva or Gran Reserva, or even Crianza! But user larger barrels also means the oak is a lot more integrated and has less impact on the wine, which is young and juicy, with great freshness, elegance and balance, with a different profile, with a lot lees oak. It shows a little backward, shy, insinuating and subtle, a little austere and opening slowly in the glass. It's silky and elegant, but it has grip, with very chalky tannins. It has contained ripeness, 14.5% alcohol, a pH of 3.78, 4.8 grams of acidity and just under two grams of unfermented sugar. It's evolving in a very slow and positive way. It's a good debut. Drink 2025-2035.

96 points Robert Parker Luis Gutiérrez

Striking depth and complexity for a Rioja, with roasted spices, minerals, cumin, red peppercorns and touches of cured meat and cocoa powder. Full and really minerally on the palate, with tense and super-polished tannins. Really long. 

96 points James Suckling Zekun Shuai

Aromas of forest floor, red cherry and rhubarb reflect its cool, Rioja Alavesa origin. Already offering perfectly integrated oak, the wine has subtle graphite notes and a certain chalky texture. It is beautifully poised and elegant; a wonderful new release from Torre de Oña. Drink 2025-2036.

96 points Decanter Beth Willard, 20 February 2025

Spicy and energetic, with top notes of wild Mediterranean herbs, chalky minerality and layers of black cherry, raspberry and pomegranate. A superb debut. Pleasantly fresh. 2026–2038.

96 points Tim Atkin MW

Torre de Oña was established in 1995 by La Rioja Alta to explore and develop the terroirs of Rioja Alavesa, the smallest of the three sub-regions of the Rioja wine region. Their 1.54ha of old bush vines, with an average age of 80 years, are in three parcels around the town of Elvillar (Bilar), a short drive north of the regional centre of Logroño. The soils here are calcareous and loamy silt.

Predominantly Tempranillo (97%), complemented with small amounts of Mazuelo, Garnacha, and Viura. 

Selected grapes were manually harvesting in small crates and refrigerated upon arrival at the winery. Destemmed grapes were placed in tanks for 12 days at a temperature below 10ºC for a cold pre-fermentation maceration to obtain a must with enhanced aromas and color. Following alcoholic fermentation in tanks, the wine completed malolactic fermentation in 500-liter French oak barrels over 14 months. After resting in tanks for five months, the final blend was prepared and bottled in July 2023.

Intense ruby-red color with garnet edges, clean and very bright. On the nose, it stands out for its intensity, featuring refined notes of redcurrant, cranberry, and blackberry, complemented by elegant and delicate aromas of clove, licorice, tobacco, and caramel, stemming from its meticulous aging in French oak barrels. On the palate, it is highly enjoyable, with a refined, balanced taste and sweet, silky tannins. The finish is exceptionally intense, with noble aromas of red forest fruits and spices, also acquired during its aging process. A wine for long-lasting enjoyment.

The reviews upon release indicate the arrival of a new Spanish icon. Production for the first release has been just 3,680 bottles - this wine is under strict allocation.