2021 Medhurst Reserve Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

From a single block at the highest portion of the slope; whole-bunch pressed to two barrels (50% new). Bright green gold. This is an essay in restraint and latent power, with aromas of stone fruits, tangerine oil, lemon curd and marine scents. Concentrated, structured and long, this has been built to last and it would be fascinating to follow this wine's evolution over the next five to seven years, if not longer. 45 dozen made.

96 points Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion July 2023

Medhurst has occupied its beautiful corner of Gruyere since Ross and Robyn Wilson established the estate in the late 1990s. The vineyards sit among the rolling slopes of the Warramate Ranges, an area that has become particularly important for Yarra Valley Chardonnay. Reserve is the more ambitious expression, selected from the estate’s best parcels and given the time and attention to develop greater depth, texture and complexity.

The 2021 vintage was a beauty in the Yarra, with mild conditions and a long, even ripening season giving Chardonnay excellent flavour while retaining natural acidity. Medhurst’s elevated vineyard and cool nights helped preserve that freshness, while barrel fermentation and time on lees built texture and savoury detail. Five years on, the wine is entering a lovely stage where youthful citrus and stone fruit are beginning to meet more complex nutty and toasty characters.

Bright straw gold, the bouquet opens with white peach, nectarine and preserved lemon before moving into grapefruit oil, acacia and roasted hazelnut. There are enticing notes of struck flint, sourdough, cashew and a little salted butter as it warms. The palate has creamy depth without heaviness, with stone fruit and lemon curd carried by fresh acidity. Almond, gentle toast and citrus oil build through the middle before a long, savoury finish of hazelnut, flint and lemon.

Marron with garlic and tarragon butter would be superb, alongside scallops with cauliflower and hazelnut, steamed coral trout with ginger, roast chicken with morels or tempura zucchini flowers. Our pick is the marron. Sweet shellfish, butter and herbs against the Chardonnay’s developing hazelnut, citrus and creamy texture is precisely the sort of lunch that accidentally consumes an afternoon.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2034.