2021 Millton Libiamo Chardonnay, Gisborne

Millton Libiamo Chardonnay from Gisborne is a vibrant, unfiltered and wildly expressive take on Chardonnay from one of New Zealand’s pioneering biodynamic estates. James and Annie Millton have long championed the individuality of Gisborne’s vineyards, and the Libiamo range is where they let their creativity loose. The fruit comes from the steep hillside parcels of Opou and the famous Riverpoint blocks, planted on mineral rich silt, clay loam and volcanic ash. Gisborne’s warm days, cool nights and gentle sea breezes create the perfect conditions for ripe, textural Chardonnay with natural tension. Millton’s biodynamic farming brings extra purity, energy and a sense of living terroir that pulses through the wine.

Winemaking is deliciously adventurous. Grapes are hand harvested and whole bunch pressed, with a portion of the fruit fermented on skins to bring perfume, spice and grip. Native yeasts kick off fermentation in amphora, large oak and old barrels, allowing each vessel to contribute its own subtle character. The wine is bottled unfiltered with its fine lees, giving it a hazy golden glow and a mouthfeel that is both creamy and alive. Libiamo Chardonnay is all about texture, flavour and freedom, a style that breaks away from convention while still honouring the grape’s natural elegance.

In the glass it shines a cloudy gold, the haze part of its charm. The nose opens with ripe peach, yellow apple and tangerine peel alongside hints of honeysuckle, chamomile, ginger and toasted grain. Beneath the fruit lie savoury notes of crushed stone, almond, wild herbs and a soft, honeyed warmth from time on skins and lees. As it breathes, hints of apricot, spice and gentle nuttiness emerge, creating a layered and intriguing bouquet.

The palate is textural, generous and beautifully alive. Juicy stone fruits flow across a creamy mid palate supported by fine tannins from skin contact. Flavours of peach, orange zest, pear, lemon curd, spice and subtle nuttiness weave together with a clean mineral thread. The wine feels both substantial and refreshing, finishing long, slightly savoury and lightly saline with lingering citrus and warm orchard fruit. It is a wine that rewards both curiosity and slow sipping, evolving beautifully in the glass.

Pair it with roasted chicken, grilled peach and burrata salads, miso glazed salmon, pumpkin ravioli, creamy vegetable dishes, soft cheeses, spicy roasted cauliflower or grilled prawns. Its combination of texture and brightness gives it extraordinary versatility.