2021 Olivier Leflaive Charmes Recolte Meursault 1er Cru, Burgundy

One barrel instead of 4. Pale primrose. A little more energy here. A lot more volume on the palate, chunky but not short, with good acidity and fair length. Drink from 2025-2030. Tasted Oct 2022.

90-93 points Jasper Morris MW, Inside Burgundy

There is a natural generosity to Meursault Charmes, but in 2021 it comes with a finer, more detailed edge, and Olivier Leflaive captures that balance beautifully. Working with top Premier Cru parcels, the house brings its trademark precision to a vineyard known for richness, shaping a wine that feels both layered and composed rather than overt.

Aromatics unfold slowly, white peach and nectarine wrapped in lemon curd and citrus zest, followed by hazelnut, almond and a gentle buttery note. There is a subtle mineral thread running underneath, giving lift and keeping everything in check, particularly in this cooler, more classical vintage.

The palate is seamless and textured, medium to full bodied with a silky, almost flowing feel. Stone fruit richness is balanced by a fine line of acidity, keeping the wine poised and energetic. Oak sits quietly in the background, adding spice and structure, while the finish stretches out with citrus, nutty depth and a savoury mineral edge.

Olivier Leflaive’s approach is all about detail, careful fruit selection, gentle handling and well judged élevage, allowing the character of Charmes to come through without excess weight. It is a wine that builds rather than shouts, revealing more with time in the glass.

It pairs effortlessly with dishes that carry a bit of richness and texture. Lobster and scallops are classics, but it is just as compelling with roast chicken, pork with apple or a creamy leek and gruyere tart. For vegetarian options, think wild mushroom risotto, roasted cauliflower with tahini or a pumpkin and sage pasta where the wine’s nutty, savoury edge really comes into play.

There is plenty of potential here. Give it time and it will deepen into honeyed, toasty and more savoury territory over the next decade and beyond.