2021 Pietradolce Etna Rosso Archineri DOC, Sicily

Bright, luminous ruby red colour. Elegant, appealing nose, delicate interplay of fruits, cherry and raspberry, some liquorice in the background. On the palate filigree and juicy, with vibrant acidity, grippy tannins, mouthwatering finish.

93 points Falstaff

Archineri comes from some of Pietradolce’s oldest Nerello Mascalese vines on the northern slopes of Mount Etna, many planted over a century ago in deep volcanic soils. This is one of the estate’s flagship wines, and it captures the side of Etna that has Burgundy and Barolo lovers completely hooked, perfume, tension, earth and that unmistakable volcanic edge.

The 2021 is incredibly expressive from the first pour. Wild strawberry, sour cherry and blood orange rise out of the glass, wrapped in dried rose, fennel seed and smoky volcanic ash. With air, it starts to deepen, tea leaf, iron, crushed herbs and something almost flinty unfolding slowly beneath the fruit.

There’s a beautiful sense of energy here. Fine tannins grip delicately rather than heavily, while bright acidity keeps everything moving with precision. The fruit feels vivid and lifted, but there’s also real depth underneath, savoury spice, dried herbs and black volcanic stone carrying through an exceptionally long finish.

This is the sort of wine that transforms around food. Charred octopus with olive oil and lemon would be brilliant, but it’s equally compelling with mushroom and pecorino pasta, grilled eggplant with mint and ricotta salata, or slow roasted lamb with fennel and oregano. Even a simple plate of roasted chestnuts and hard cheese somehow works.

Still youthful and best with a bit of air, though the structure and balance here suggest ten to fifteen years of evolution easily.

There’s something haunting about great Etna Rosso, and Archineri captures it perfectly, all smoke, florals, tension and volcanic energy.