2021 Pietradolce Etna Rosso DOC Rampante, Sicily

Dark ruby red with subtle brightening on the rim and purple reflections. Spicy nose, lots of pepper, tobacco and cardamom with cherries and plums in the background. The palate is powerful and juicy, structured, rich tannins, dancing acidity, spicy, long finish.

94 points Falstaff

Rampante comes from the northern slopes of Mount Etna, where old Nerello Mascalese vines cling to black volcanic soils at serious altitude. Pietradolce has become one of the leading names on the mountain, capturing Etna’s mix of perfume, tension and raw mineral energy with remarkable precision. The Rampante vineyard in particular tends to produce wines with more structure and darker, more brooding fruit.

The 2021 opens with a striking mix of wild cherry, blood orange and pomegranate, layered with dried rose, fennel seed and volcanic ash. There’s a smoky, iron like edge running underneath it all, something distinctly Etna that keeps pulling you back to the glass.

It moves with energy rather than weight. Fine tannins give shape and grip, while bright acidity cuts through and keeps everything taut and alive. The fruit feels vivid and lifted, but there’s also a darker savoury layer of herbs, spice and crushed stone that builds steadily through the finish.

This is where Etna Rosso becomes so compelling at the table. Chargrilled swordfish with capers and herbs is brilliant, but it’s equally stunning with mushroom arancini, roasted beetroot with ricotta salata or smoky lentils with fennel and olive oil. The wine’s freshness and volcanic edge seem to wake up earthy, savoury flavours beautifully.

Still young and tightly wound, though already fascinating with air. Over the next ten to fifteen years it will evolve into something even more savoury and complex.

There’s a wildness here that feels completely tied to the mountain, less polished than many reds, but far more captivating because of it.