2021 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Cicala, Piedmont

A super-intense and perfumed Barolo, graceful and powerful, with aromas of Parma violets, citrus, leaves, lush cherries and yellow stone fruit. Full-bodied on the palate, it shows a velvety texture, ripe tannins despite the extraction, tight-knit acidity and graphite flavors. Long, lavish finish. Drinkable now, but best from 2027.

97 points jamessuckling.com

Within the great Bussia cru of Monforte d’Alba lies the historic Cicala vineyard, a site renowned for producing Barolo with formidable structure and ageing potential. Poderi Aldo Conterno was founded in the late 1960s when Aldo Conterno established his own estate after leaving the family’s Giacomo Conterno winery. His vision was to craft Barolo that combined the depth and tradition of the Langhe with precise vineyard expression. Today the estate is run by Aldo’s sons, continuing the family legacy across the hillsides of Bussia where limestone and clay soils create Nebbiolo of remarkable intensity.

The wine shows the classic garnet colour of Nebbiolo with luminous ruby reflections. Aromatically it is complex and captivating, opening with rose petal, red cherry and dried raspberry before revealing layers of liquorice, tar and crushed herbs. With time in the glass deeper notes of tobacco, truffle and forest floor emerge, adding further dimension.

Structure is the defining feature here, with vibrant red fruit supported by firm, finely woven tannins and bright acidity that provide both lift and longevity. Flavours of dried cherry, spice and earthy mineral character build through the wine, reflecting the power of the Bussia hillside. The finish is long and persistent with lingering impressions of dried rose, savoury herbs and dark cherry.

Braised beef, slow cooked lamb, truffle pasta or aged Parmigiano Reggiano complement the wine’s depth and structure. With its concentration and balance, Barolo Cicala will continue to evolve beautifully in the cellar for twenty five years or more, gradually developing layers of leather, dried flowers and earthy complexity.