2021 Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello, Piedmont

A restrained and elegant wine with aromas of citrus, leaves, dried cherries, orange peel and an enticing whiff of peppermint. The palate is graceful despite a full body, tense acidity and firm, muscular yet velvety tannins, but everything is well packed, poised and balanced. Long, lavish and bracing aftertaste. Drink 2027 

98 points jamessuckling.com

The cherry, blackberry and violet flavors are effusive, while the structure lends a dense matrix of tannins and bright acidity. Overall, this is taut and reserved, yet with a racy feel and marvelous length. Flashes of tar, black pepper and mineral add complexity. Best from 2030 through 2050. 435 cases made. Drink 2030-2050

98 points Bruce Sanderson winespectator.com

Poderi Aldo Conterno Barolo Colonnello DOCG from Piedmont is one of the great single vineyard Barolos of Monforte d’Alba, produced by a family whose name carries enormous weight in the Langhe. The Conterno story began with Giacomo Conterno, one of the architects of traditional Barolo, but it was Aldo Conterno who carved his own path in 1969 when he established Poderi Aldo Conterno on the prized Bussia hill. Today the estate is run by Aldo’s sons Franco, Stefano and Giacomo, who continue the family’s fiercely traditional approach. The Colonnello cru sits within the Bussia MGA, a superb south facing slope of calcareous clay and sandstone soils that gives Nebbiolo both power and refinement. Fermentation takes place in stainless steel followed by long ageing in large Slavonian oak botti, preserving the vineyard character while allowing the wine to evolve slowly. Colonnello is consistently regarded as one of the most elegant expressions of Bussia, combining depth, perfume and remarkable longevity.

The wine shows a brilliant garnet red colour that deepens with age. Aromas unfold slowly with classic Barolo complexity, dried rose petals, violets, red cherry, wild strawberry, orange peel and hints of liquorice, tobacco and truffle layered with subtle spice from extended ageing. The palate is structured yet beautifully refined, with firm Nebbiolo tannins wrapped around flavours of sour cherry, crushed herbs, tar and earthy minerality that speaks clearly of the Bussia hillside. As it opens the wine becomes more savoury and complex, finishing long, lifted and persistent. It is a magnificent partner for Piedmontese classics such as braised beef in Barolo, slow cooked lamb shoulder, wild mushroom risotto or aged Parmigiano Reggiano. This is a collector’s Barolo with exceptional cellaring potential of twenty five to forty years, during which it will evolve into something truly profound.