2021 Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny Terres Chaudes, Loire Valley

Biodynamic. Previously a blend of two terroirs, Terres Chaudes now hails exclusively from the Poyeux terroir in Chaintres, near the heart of the appellation (an area made famous by the Clos Rougeard bottling). The vines for this cuvée are about 50 years old on average and come from the coteau, or slope, where there is very shallow topsoil before the roots hit the limestone bedrock.
 
All the fruit was de-stemmed and fermented in cement (with some foot stomping), followed by maturation in 60-hectolitre, neutral wooden vats. This vintage must be one of the most impressive, vibrant and nuanced Terres Chaudes that Germain has crafted. You can't miss the imprint of Poyeux's ripe berry, spice and mineral-charged fruit, yet Germain's seamless 2021 is rendered with rare elegance for this terroir. Pure, bright and floral, its silky, floral flecked palate is sculpted by limestone-derived freshness—a fascinating contrast to the Clos Rougeard bottling