2023 Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny, Loire Valley

The 2023 Domaine des Roches Neuves possesses a gourmand bouquet of fresh dark berries, flowers and cassis, followed by a juicy, delicate and tense palate, finishing ethereal and elegant.

88 points Yohan Castaing robertparker.com

Germain’s entry-point Saumur-Champigny is drawn from the Domaine’s younger Cabernet Franc vines, which grow on the tuffeau/limestone soils around the communes of Varrains, Chaintres and Saumur. The vines range in age from five to 70 years (with the average sitting around 25 years old) and include some parcels ploughed by Germain’s Ardennais draft horses, Ben and Comtesse. Harvesting is by hand, a cold soak infusion is employed on some parcels, and the wild yeast fermentation and élevage are now carried out only in tank. Aside from a minor 10 ppm SO2 at bottling, this is raised without any additions at all. 100% Cabernet Franc. Biodynamic.

The Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny is a benchmark Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley, showcasing purity, vibrancy, and the unique terroir of the Saumur-Champigny appellation. Crafted by renowned winemaker Thierry Germain, this wine epitomizes his commitment to biodynamic viticulture and minimal intervention winemaking.

The nose is elegant and expressive, offering aromas of ripe red cherries, raspberries, and cranberries, layered with floral notes of violet and subtle hints of fresh herbs and graphite. Earthy undertones and a touch of peppery spice add depth and complexity to the aromatic profile.

On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied, with silky tannins and lively acidity that highlight its freshness and finesse. Bright red fruit flavors are complemented by savory hints of tobacco, crushed stones, and a distinctive minerality that reflects the limestone-rich soils of the region. The finish is long and refined, with lingering notes of red berries and a touch of spice.

Thierry Germain’s meticulous approach to vineyard management ensures that the Roches Neuves Saumur-Champigny is a true reflection of its origins. Hand-harvested grapes and fermentation with indigenous yeasts preserve the wine’s authenticity, while gentle aging in neutral vessels maintains its vibrant fruit character and delicate complexity.

This wine pairs beautifully with roasted duck, grilled pork tenderloin, or classic French dishes like ratatouille. It also complements vegetarian options such as lentil salads or mushroom risotto. While it can be enjoyed young for its bright fruit and lively character, it also has the potential to age gracefully for 5–7 years, developing further complexity and elegance over time.