2021 Santa Duc Habemus Papam Chateauneuf-du-Pape, Southern Rhone

Still in cask last summer, the 2021 Chateauneuf du Pape Habemus Papam is a 60-40 blend of Grenache and Syrah. It's a complex, savory vintage for this wine, with notes of smoke, leather, cracked pepper, allspice and menthol all figuring into the mix. It's medium to full-bodied and firm on the mid-palate, then softly tannic on the long, mouthwatering finish.

Benjamin Gras described the 2021 vintage as "unusual, but good." According to Gras, the frost only impacted lower-lying vineyards, but what followed was a cool, cloudy summer that necessitated seven or eight treatments of the vines, then came 200 millimeters of rain in September.

One key development at this family-run estate is preparing to introduce a Gigondas Blanc to the lineup. A portion of the property's highest terrace, located at 350 meters above sea level, has been over-grafted to white varieties (90% Clairette and 10% Bourboulenc). It will be interesting to follow that wine going forward, as Gras already makes a successful white from those varieties in Roaix, fermenting and aging the wine in a mix of demi-muids and amphorae. "It [Clairette] is a floral variety, not a fruity one," said Gras. "I'm a big fan of that."

While Benjamin's father, Yves Gras, may still be spotted prowling around the property, his preference for bold, sometimes hulking wines has been completely replaced by his son's pursuit of lower alcohols and elegance. In 2021, admittedly a cool year, Benjamin says his reds will all be labeled at 13.5% alcohol.

Benjamin provided a quick window into how his wines have evolved by sharing a bottle of the domaine's 2017 Gigondas Clos Derrière Vieille, a wine I have now had the chance to try on four separate occasions. As on previous tastings, it's silky and elegant, yet still youthful, capable of aging through 2035—a solid 93-point wine. As my notes were very similar to the last published review (in October 2020), I've not bothered to rereview the wine formally, but I simply mention this to reassure any consumers who might be concerned about how the new generation's wines might evolve.

92-94 points Joe Czerwinski robertparker.com

Vineyard situated in several parts of Châteauneuf-du-Pape called Les Saintes Vierges, La Font du Pape & Le Pradel.