2021 Savaterre Syrah Beechworth

Mixes the savoury with the dark-fruited, but first a decant is required if opening sooner rather than later. Tight in structure and slow to release, it can and does open up on the aroma in striking, herbal-edged, earthy, stemmy notes with dark berries, cocoa and peppery spice. Remains grounded to taste, with savoury tannins adding that extra touch of interest – and potential food-pairing possibilities – in earthy sage, herbals and dark fruits sprinkled warmly in spice and a gentle sheen of oak. Finishes on a lasting high with black pepper all the way. Drink 2026 to 2037.

95 points Jeni Port for Halliday Wine Companion, April 2026

Keppell Smith established Savaterre in 1996 after a deliberate search through Australia's premium wine regions for the right site. He found it just outside the historic town of Beechworth, on an elevated slope at 440 metres above sea level in the foothills of the Victorian Alps. Beechworth is among Australia's most respected cool-climate regions, and is home to a concentration of small, uncompromising producers, with Savaterre considered one of the very best.

Nutrient-poor, free-draining granite buckshot topsoils, high density planting and moderate temperatures all contribute to naturally low yields and intensive fruit flavours. While the Chardonnay is perhaps what Beechworth is best known for, the Shiraz is quietly one of the most distinctive expressions of the variety in Australia — closer in spirit to a northern Rhône Syrah than anything from, for example, the Barossa or McLaren Vale.

Wild fermented with a significant proportion of whole bunches and matured in Burgundian oak, the approach mirrors the restraint and precision applied across the entire range. Decanting well ahead of serving is strongly recommended as this wine opens slowly and will reward patience.

The 2021 opens with dark berries, cocoa and peppery spice on the nose, with herbal, earthy and stemmy complexity threading through as it breathes. The palate is grounded and structured, with fine savoury tannins, earthy sage, dried herbs and dark fruit warmed by spice and a gentle sheen of oak. The finish is long and persistent, closing on a bright note of black pepper.

A serious, composed wine that will drink well from 2026 through to 2037. Serve alongside roasted game, slow-braised lamb shoulder or a richly seasoned mushroom dish.