2021 Sutton Grange Fairbank Syrah, Bendigo

Looks dark and intense, but it's a very different story when you actually taste. Medium bodied, expressive and sleek, this youngster fits the Fairbank style. Black cherry, blueberry, plum, cocoa, spice, Dutch licorice. Perky and fresh, the subtle layer of dried herbs helps. The result is a fleshy palate encased in even-handed tannins. It's age-worthy, too, if you wish.

93 points Special Value Jeni Port winecompanion.com.au

The Sutton Grange Fairbank Syrah from Bendigo is a beautifully expressive red that captures both the generosity of central Victoria and the finesse that comes from biodynamic farming. Sutton Grange, once a historic grazing property, has evolved into one of Bendigo’s finest estates under the guidance of winemaker Melanie Chester (now carried forward by a skilled team with the same philosophy). The Fairbank label focuses on wines that are bright, energetic and approachable in their youth, with Syrah taking a juicy, perfumed and food-friendly shape compared to the more structured estate bottlings.

In the glass it is a vibrant deep crimson with purple hues. The bouquet is lifted and aromatic, showing blackberry, mulberry and dark cherry alongside violet, white pepper, spice and a touch of earth. The palate is medium-bodied and supple, with layers of juicy dark fruits framed by silky tannins and refreshing acidity. Whole-bunch inclusion adds aromatic lift and savoury complexity, while the finish is long, bright and gently spicy, making it both elegant and highly drinkable.

Food pairings highlight its lively style: roast lamb with rosemary, duck with plum sauce, chargrilled sausages, or vegetarian dishes such as mushroom ragù or roasted eggplant with herbs. Semi-hard cheeses like Manchego or pecorino also pair beautifully. Best enjoyed young for its vibrancy, but it can also cellar for 6 to 8 years, developing savoury and earthy nuances.