2021 Swinging Bridge Hill Park Chardonnay, Orange

Full to the brim with bright pineapple slices, white peach and yellow apple. A flinty reduction is complemented by perfectly ripe lemon rinds, marigold blooms and toasted popcorn kernels. The palate is leesy with a lactose creaminess and the acidity is powerful and undulating. The Hill Park site again delivers potency of force in a graceful manner, showing why Orange is in the driver's seat of cool-climate chardonnay.

95 points Shanteh Wale winecompanion.com.au August 2023

Swinging Bridge is one of the names that helped put Orange firmly on the map for serious cool climate wine. The estate was founded by the Jacob family, with winemaker Tom Ward driving its modern direction and becoming a passionate advocate for Orange’s high altitude vineyards. Hill Park sits among the more site focused Chardonnay releases, where the aim is to capture altitude, vineyard character and finesse rather than simply ripeness or oak.

Orange is all about elevation. Vineyards climb the slopes around Mount Canobolas, an ancient volcano, with cold nights and a long growing season allowing Chardonnay to develop flavour while retaining naturally bright acidity. The volcanic derived soils add another dimension, and the 2021 vintage gave the region an excellent combination of fruit purity and freshness. With several years in bottle, Hill Park should now be moving beyond primary fruit into more complex savoury territory.

Bright straw gold with white peach, nectarine and preserved lemon followed by grapefruit and ripe pear. Cashew, almond meal and subtle toast emerge with air, joined by a little struck flint and gentle smoky complexity. The palate is finely textured, with stone fruit and citrus wrapped around fresh acidity. Lemon curd, toasted almond and a cool mineral note build through the long, savoury finish.

Grilled scallops with sweetcorn and miso have the richness and umami to meet its developing texture, while roast snapper with fennel, crab ravioli, cauliflower with hazelnut or marron with lemon butter would all sit comfortably alongside. At five years old, this should be in a very interesting place, particularly with a little air rather than served straight from the fridge.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.