2021 TarraWarra Estate Nebbiolo, Yarra Valley

The ruby colour is good for nebbiolo, and the nose provides varietal cues in its briary scents, tar, ironstone and restrained berry fruit. It grows with air in the glass, revealing subtle flavours that slip savoury into a drying, grippy tannin finish. 02 Feb 2024

92 points Ralph Kyte-Powell therealreview.com

TarraWarra Estate Nebbiolo is a captivating expression of this famously complex Italian grape, reimagined through the cool elegance of Victoria’s Yarra Valley. Grown on the north-facing slopes of the estate’s meticulously maintained vineyard in the Yarra’s Lower Valley, this wine brings together the wild, aromatic beauty of Nebbiolo with the refinement and structure that TarraWarra is known for. The vineyard’s clay-loam soils over sandstone and the region’s long, temperate growing season allow Nebbiolo to ripen slowly and evenly while retaining the tension and tannin that are hallmarks of the variety.

TarraWarra was among the early pioneers of Nebbiolo in the Yarra Valley, and their approach is both respectful of tradition and attuned to site. Handpicked fruit is fermented with a mix of whole berries and gentle maceration to extract fine tannins without overpowering the wine’s aromatics. The wine is then matured in seasoned French oak for well over a year, allowing the wine to soften and integrate while preserving its delicate perfume and savoury edge.

The result is a Nebbiolo that offers all the varietal markers—rose petals, dried cherries, blood orange, anise and hints of truffle—but with a Yarra Valley accent. It’s lighter in colour, but don’t be fooled. The structure is firm, the tannins grippy yet fine, and the acidity carries the wine through a long, dry, mineral finish. There’s a beautiful interplay between red fruit brightness and earthy complexity, making it both intellectually engaging and deeply enjoyable.

It’s a natural match for northern Italian dishes like osso buco, wild mushroom risotto or truffle pasta, but it also sings with chargrilled eggplant, aged cheeses or duck with cherries. While already drinking well, it has the structure and acid to evolve gracefully over the next eight to ten years.

TarraWarra’s Nebbiolo is one of the quiet treasures of the Yarra—a thoughtful, expressive wine that honours the grape’s heritage while offering something distinctly Australian.