2021 Thistledown Sands of Time Grenache, Blewitt Springs McLaren Vale

Hooley dooley. Good. This 2021 Sands of Time Old Vine Single Vineyard Grenache shows Grenache in its best light; when the fruit is buoyant, succulent, airy and spicy, but also when it has been compressed and screwed down into place by gossamer fine tannins. This is tight yet expansive, classy yet exciting: a wine of amalgums and complexity. So what does it taste like? First, raspberry leaf tea, red licorice, berry coulis... then blood, ferrous and iodine seep into the edges and drag with them licorice, pink peppercorn, hung deli meat and a whiff of blackberry pie. It finishes slender, with graphite and quartz. The cooler year has exposed a fine framework of ripe, whippy tannins, which hold the fruit in place—ever-present yet invisible. What a wine.

97+ points Erin Larkin robertparker.com

Raspberry, lilac and rosehip behind. The tannins, a saline scape of bridling force that stretch from the attack to the long, chalky finish. Delicious. Concrete ferment, layered buhches and destenned material to promote perfume and a meszcal whiff of the best parts beyond a border of controle. Saliva-sappping energy.

97 points Special Value Ned Gooodwin MW winecompanion.com.au

Deep-ish, bright, bold red-purple colour; the intensity of earthy/ironstone/savoury aroma and flavour is superb, and the finish long. Concentrated, brooding, with rich and fleshy mouth-feel. An impressive wine of dimension and power as well as elegance. Outstanding wine from a textbook season. 15 Aug 2023 Drink 2023–2036

96 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

Thistledown Sands of Time Grenache is a stunning expression of old vine Grenache from the Blewitt Springs subregion of McLaren Vale, where ancient sandy soils and cool coastal breezes create wines of remarkable perfume, energy and finesse. Crafted by Giles Cooke MW and Fergal Tynan MW, this wine is part of Thistledown’s flagship collection and stands as one of Australia’s most exciting Grenache benchmarks.

The fruit is sourced from dry-grown bush vines planted in 1946, rooted in deep Maslin sands that drain freely and stress the vines just enough to produce concentrated, aromatic fruit. Winemaking is deliberately gentle—handpicked, fermented with a high proportion of whole bunches and matured in large, seasoned French oak to preserve the delicacy and complexity of the site.

On the nose it’s beautifully lifted with wild strawberry, raspberry leaf, rose petal, blood orange and white pepper. The palate is pure and flowing with red fruit, crushed rock, fine sandy tannins and a long, seamless finish that speaks of place rather than oak or technique.

Serve with Moroccan spiced lamb, roasted duck with pomegranate glaze, or chargrilled eggplant. While vibrant in youth, this Grenache has the pedigree and balance to cellar gracefully for 10 to 15 years.