2021 Torres Altos Ibericos Crianza, Rioja

Savory red plums with a touch of oranges and iron. Medium-bodied with juicy, plummy fruit, firm tannins and a medium-length finish. Drink now.

91 points James Suckling

Torres has been one of Spain’s great wine families for generations, and Altos Ibéricos captures their more modern take on Rioja, polished, expressive and built for drinking rather than long cellar waits. Sourced mainly from Tempranillo vineyards in Rioja Alavesa, the cooler influence and limestone rich soils give the wine freshness and structure beneath the generous fruit.

The 2021 opens with plenty of warmth and spice. Ripe cherry, dark plum and blackberry roll out first, followed by vanilla, cedar and sweet baking spice from oak ageing. There’s also a little dried herb and tobacco note underneath that keeps it grounded in Rioja tradition.

It settles into a smooth, easy rhythm. The fruit feels plush and generous, wrapped in soft tannins that give shape without hardness. Oak adds a creamy layer of spice and mocha, while enough freshness runs underneath to stop things feeling heavy. The finish lingers on dark berries, vanilla and a touch of savoury earth.

This is exactly the sort of red that loves bold, comforting food. Lamb skewers with smoked paprika would be superb, but it’s equally good with smoky chorizo stew, grilled mushrooms with manchego, or roasted eggplant with tomato and cumin yoghurt. Hard cheeses and anything kissed by fire seem to bring the wine to life.

Drinking beautifully now while the fruit and spice are front and centre, though it has enough balance to evolve comfortably over the next five to seven years.

There’s an easy confidence here, modern Rioja with plenty of flavour and polish, but still enough savoury detail to keep things interesting.