2021 Umani Ronchi Conero Riserva Cumaro Rosso, Abruzzo

Spicy black fruit on the nose, with hints of perfumed bark and ink. Medium-bodied with firm tannins and a bright, mineral and citrus-zest finish. This needs to open up a little. Try from 2026.

91 points James Suckling

Umani Ronchi has been one of the leading names of Italy’s Adriatic coast since the late 1950s, with the Bianchi Bernetti family shaping the estate for generations. Cùmaro is one of its historic reds, first produced in 1985 and named after Mount Conero, or Komaros in Greek. One small geographical correction for the shelf, Hilary: Conero is in the Marche rather than Abruzzo, although Umani Ronchi also owns vineyards further south in Abruzzo.

Cùmaro is 100% Montepulciano, grown in the Conero area close to the Adriatic. The combination of warm Mediterranean sunshine, cooling sea breezes and limestone rich soils gives Montepulciano plenty of dark fruit while preserving the savoury structure needed for a serious Riserva. The excellent 2021 vintage suits the style beautifully, with concentration and ripe tannins balanced by freshness.

Deep ruby crimson, with black cherry, blackberry and dark plum at the centre of the bouquet. Violet, liquorice and dried rosemary follow, joined by black olive, tobacco, cocoa and a touch of balsamic spice. The palate is full bodied and generous but not cumbersome, with juicy dark fruit held by firm, polished tannins. Plum and cherry move towards olive, cocoa and dried herbs before a long, savoury finish.

Lamb shoulder with rosemary and black olives would be terrific, alongside beef cheek with polenta, pork ribs with fennel and garlic, smoky eggplant with tomato and pecorino or mushroom and taleggio cannelloni. Our pick is the lamb, slow cooked until it barely requires a knife.

Cellaring: Drink now with a decant or cellar to 2038.