2021 Vina Zorzal Cuatro del Cuatro Graciano, Navarra

The varietal Graciano 2021 Cuatro del Cuatro is their homage to their father, who didn't grub up the vines when many did. The first grapes picked from Corella, a warmer and more Mediterranean part of Navarra, fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeast, and the wine matured in used 300- and 500-liter barrels for one year. It has a contained 13.05% alcohol with low pH and high acidity, and it's super perfumed, with tons of flowers and a fresh, light and elegant palate. It has great elegance and balance and very fine tannins.

94+ points Luis Guitierrez, The Wine Advocate

Viña Zorzal is a family estate in Navarra founded by Antonio Sanz in 1989 and now driven by his sons, who have built a reputation around the region’s native and traditional varieties. Cuatro del Cuatro is one of the family’s most personal wines, created as a tribute to their father, who was born on 4 April. The focus is Graciano, a variety usually seen playing a supporting role in Rioja blends but given the entire stage here.

Graciano can be demanding in the vineyard, ripening late and naturally producing wines with deep colour, perfume and firm acidity. Navarra’s warm days and cooler nights suit it particularly well. The 2021 has the concentration to show the grape’s darker side while retaining the freshness that makes Graciano so distinctive. There is plenty of structure, but also fragrance and savoury detail, making this much more than a curiosity for Spanish wine tragics.

Deep purple crimson, opening with blackberry, black cherry and blueberry before violet and lavender appear. Liquorice, cracked pepper and juniper follow, joined by rosemary, graphite and a touch of bitter chocolate. The palate is concentrated but energetic, with dark fruit wrapped around fresh acidity and firm, finely grained tannins. Black cherry and blackberry return through the finish with anise, pepper and a cool mineral note.

Charcoal grilled lamb cutlets with rosemary and garlic are right at home here, as are beef skewers with smoked paprika, mushroom paella, charred eggplant with romesco or slow cooked pork with peppers. Our pick is the mushroom paella, particularly the crunchy socarrat underneath, which will have plenty to say to Graciano’s dark fruit and savoury spice.

Cellaring: Drink now with a decant or cellar to 2036.