2022 Apogee Deluxe Vintage Brut, Pipers Brook

Pale in the glass with a fine, energetic bead and mousse. Aromas of green apple and citrus fruits alongside hints of crushed shell, clover blossom, freshly baked pastries, shiitake, sea breeze, ozone, flint and stone. It's all about precision and tension on the palate, the fruit propelled forward on a rail of crystalline acidity, gaining velocity before resolving in a gentle fan of citrus, grilled nuts and fresh pastry. It's in wonderful form.

96 points Special Value Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

From the cool, windswept landscapes of Pipers Brook in northern Tasmania comes a sparkling wine that continues to surprise seasoned Champagne drinkers with its finesse and value. Apogee was founded by winemaker Andrew Pirie, one of the true pioneers of premium Tasmanian sparkling wine, whose work over decades helped establish the island’s global reputation for méthode traditionnelle styles. The Deluxe Vintage Brut reflects both that heritage and a modern precision, crafted from carefully selected parcels of Pinot Noir and Chardonnay grown in a region where long, slow ripening seasons build flavour intensity while preserving piercing natural acidity. Extended time on lees brings texture and complexity, creating a wine that confidently bridges the gap between Australian identity and classic Champagne inspiration.

A luminous pale gold hue glows in the glass, animated by a fine, persistent bead. Aromas unfold with layers of green apple, lemon curd and white peach intertwined with toasted brioche, roasted hazelnut and a subtle chalk dust minerality. There is a real sense of depth and composure here that critics consistently highlight. The palate is beautifully structured and precise, citrus and orchard fruit flowing across a creamy yet tightly knit mousse before tightening into a long, mineral driven finish. Hints of nougat, oyster shell and gentle spice linger, giving the wine impressive persistence and refinement well beyond its price point.

This is sparkling that feels equally at home at serious tables and joyful celebrations. Think freshly shucked oysters, tempura prawns, roast chicken with tarragon or simply a bottle opened on a cool evening when you want something genuinely special without reaching for Champagne. Drinking superbly now after a little time in the glass, yet capable of evolving gracefully for six to ten years as nutty, honeyed and savoury complexity deepens. Critics love it for its balance, detail and authenticity, and it remains one of Tasmania’s most compelling value alternatives to the great houses of Champagne.