2022 Arnaud Baillot Meursault 1er Cru Les Cras, Burgundy

Les Cras sits high above Meursault on thin, stony soils, and it shows in the glass, less about weight, more about tension and line. Arnaud Baillot, working with carefully selected parcels and a light touch in the cellar, leans into that natural precision, letting the site shape the wine rather than pushing for richness.

The 2022 opens with a mix of citrus and orchard fruit, lemon peel, pear and white peach, layered with hazelnut, a touch of buttered pastry and a fine flinty note. There’s depth, but it feels coiled rather than broad.

Give it a moment and it starts to stretch out. A hint of spice, a flicker of toasted almond and something slightly saline come through, adding complexity without softening the edge.

There’s a real sense of structure here. The fruit sits along a firm, mineral spine, with acidity keeping everything tight and focused. Texture builds through the middle, a gentle creaminess from lees, but it never tips into heaviness. The finish carries on with citrus oil, stone and a savoury, almost chalky grip.

This is where you can lean into dishes with both richness and cut. Butter poached marron or lobster works beautifully, but it’s just as compelling with a roast chicken stuffed with preserved lemon and thyme. For something different, try it with a white miso glazed eggplant or a cauliflower and comté gratin where the wine’s tension slices through the creaminess.

Still young and benefits from a bit of air, but it has the structure to evolve over the next ten to fifteen years, gaining more nutty, savoury depth.