2022 Arnaud Lambert Saumur Brézé Clos de Midi, Loire Valley

From his largest single holding of 3.5 ha of south-east facing vines planted in 1985 on sandy clay over limestone. Vinification using no SO2 in stainless steel tank for 75% and 25% in ceramic eggs with indigenous yeast and no malolactic. Bottled in March 2023 this shows excellent freshness and precision in a pure fruit-forward expression of chenin in its most pure state. Very attractive and approachable right away. Un-fined, but filtered

Breze is on the rise, today producing some of the most arrestingly mineral, intense Chenin Blanc on the planet. For at least 500 years, these vines produced some of the most profound wines of France. They were regularly exchanged, barrel for barrel, with Chateau d’Yquem, the nectar like sweet wine from Bordeaux that sells for thousands of dollars a bottle. They were a favourite at Versailles under the Sun King, Louis XIV. Today, out of 400 hectares (980 acres), only 4 producers are bottling wines as Breze, accounting for about 10% of the vineyard area.

Arnaud Lambert has 21 hectares, and makes stunning single vineyard whites from Clos du Midi, Clos David and Clos de la Rue. These are precise crystal sharp wines in their youth, with enough snap to shock the tongue, butnstill possess the weight and resonance to expand and slightly soften with age. The reds come from Clos de L’Etoilenand Clos Mazurique. While differences in each vineyard lead to wines of distinctive character, Lambert’s style arcs toward grace. His wines are stripped down and elemental, ripped with acidity and verve. They plug into the electricity of Breze’s limestone soils.