2022 Castello di Meleto Chianti Classico DOCG, Tuscany

Castello di Meleto sits among the rolling hills of Gaiole, in the eastern reaches of Chianti Classico, with a history stretching back to the 13th century. Today the estate farms an impressive patchwork of vineyards around the medieval castle, with Sangiovese very much the star. Gaiole’s higher elevations, rocky soils and cooler conditions give its wines a particularly fragrant, savoury personality — Chianti with energy rather than muscle.

The 2022 vintage was warm and dry, making Gaiole’s altitude especially valuable. Cooling evening air helped preserve acidity and perfume, while the area’s classic galestro and alberese soils bring the fine tannins and earthy bite that suit Sangiovese so beautifully. The result is generous enough to enjoy now, but still has that mouthwatering Tuscan shape that practically demands food.

Bright ruby with garnet highlights, the nose opens with Morello cherry, redcurrant and wild strawberry before violet, blood orange and dried oregano appear. With air come tobacco leaf, black tea, warm terracotta and a little balsamic herb. The palate is juicy and energetic, with sour cherry and red plum carried by lively acidity and fine, dusty tannins. Orange peel, herbs and earthy spice build through the middle before a dry, savoury finish.

Give this pappardelle with duck ragù, fennel-flecked pork sausages, bistecca with rosemary, eggplant parmigiana or a wood-fired pizza loaded with mushrooms and salami. Our pick is the duck ragù, rich meat, ribbons of pasta and plenty of Pecorino against that cherry-and-herb Tuscan bite could make lunch alarmingly permanent.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.