2023 Montecalvi Chianti Classico DOCG, Tuscany

Montecalvi is a small estate at Greve in Chianti, with vineyards tucked into the hills of the northern part of Chianti Classico. The Drake family has been behind the property since the 1980s, and the focus is firmly on Sangiovese and expressing the character of the estate rather than chasing power. There is an appealing traditional streak to the wines, with fragrance, acidity and savoury detail doing more of the work than oak or extraction.

The vineyards sit on the rocky limestone and marl soils so well suited to Sangiovese, with elevation and good exposure helping fruit ripen slowly while retaining freshness. The 2023 vintage produced beautifully fragrant Sangiovese, and Montecalvi captures that with a medium bodied style where juicy red fruit is countered by earthy spice and the grape’s naturally lively acidity.

Clear ruby crimson, the bouquet starts with sour cherry, wild strawberry and redcurrant before violet and blood orange emerge. There are notes of dried oregano, fennel seed, anise and black tea, with a little earthy dustiness underneath. The palate is lively and mouthwatering, with cherry and cranberry running across fine, slightly grainy tannins. Orange peel and liquorice add savoury bite through the middle before a dry, energetic finish.

Porchetta with fennel and crackling would be terrific here, alongside ricotta and spinach cannelloni, grilled lamb with salsa verde, mushroom and fontina arancini or a pizza topped with anchovies, olives and mozzarella. Our pick is the porchetta. Salty crackling, fennel and juicy pork against Sangiovese’s cherry and acidity is a very efficient way of making the bottle disappear.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033.