2024 Corzano e Paterno Chianti Terre di Corzano, Tuscany

Corzano e Paterno is a wonderfully individual family estate in San Casciano in Val di Pesa, in the hills south of Florence. Swiss architect Wendelin Gelpke began restoring the old farm in the late 1960s, bringing vineyards, olive groves and livestock back to life. Today the next generations continue the work, farming organically and producing both wine and superb sheep’s milk cheeses. Terre di Corzano sits right at the heart of their Tuscan range.

Sangiovese leads the way, grown on elevated hillsides where calcareous soils, warm sunshine and cooler nights help preserve the grape’s natural acidity and fragrance. The 2024 has the bright red fruit and savoury backbone that make good Chianti such a natural food wine. There is no attempt to inflate it into something grander: the attraction is juicy Sangiovese, fine tannin and that unmistakable Tuscan mix of fruit, earth and herbs.

Bright ruby with sour cherry, raspberry and redcurrant followed by violet and blood orange. Sage, fennel seed and thyme add a savoury thread, with black tea and a little warm earth underneath. The palate is medium bodied and energetic, with crunchy red fruit carried by lively acidity and fine, gently dusty tannins. Cherry and orange peel return on the finish with dried herbs and earthy spice.

Pici with mushroom and pecorino sauce is where I’d head, particularly with the estate’s own cheese if we happened to be sitting in Tuscany. Eggplant parmigiana, grilled pork with sage, white bean and tomato stew or a properly crisp mushroom pizza could easily follow. Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.