2023 Corzano e Paterno I Tre Borri Rosso, Tuscany

Named for the three small rivers that converge on the property, I Tre Borri is Corzano's most profound and generous wine. It is pure Sangiovese from three parcels of the Estate's oldest vines, planted by Wendel Gelpke in the 1970s and cropped low, at roughly one bottle per vine. The fruit is selected twice, first in the vineyard and again in the cellar, and the wine is made only in the finest vintages. Since 2015 it has been bottled as Toscana Rosso rather than Chianti Riserva. Aljoschia Goldschmidt felt the Riserva DOCG image was in decline and preferred the IGT designation to convey the quality and philosophy of a wine made from the finest Corzano Sangiovese.

Corzano e Paterno is a wonderfully characterful family estate in the hills of San Casciano in Val di Pesa, just south of Florence. The property was transformed from a traditional Tuscan farm by Swiss architect Wendelin Gelpke from the late 1960s, with vineyards, olive groves and sheep all part of the picture. Today the next generations continue the work, and the estate is almost as famous for its exceptional sheep’s milk cheeses as its wines. That immediately gives us ideas for dinner.

I Tre Borri comes from the estate’s hillside vineyards, where the stony, calcareous soils and elevation help Sangiovese retain its natural freshness and perfume. The 2023 is very much about Tuscan drinkability rather than brute force, with juicy red fruit, savoury herbs and lively acidity. There is enough structure for the table, but it doesn’t require years in the cellar before becoming friendly.

Bright ruby red, with sour cherry, raspberry and red plum followed by violet and blood orange. Fennel, sage and a little anise add savoury detail, with black tea and warm earth underneath. The palate is medium bodied and energetic, with juicy cherry fruit, lively acidity and fine, gently grippy tannins. Orange peel, dried herbs and earthy spice carry the fresh, appetising finish.

Pappardelle with mushroom and pecorino feels particularly appropriate, given the estate makes superb cheese of its own. Eggplant parmigiana, grilled pork with sage, white bean and tomato stew or mushroom pizza would also keep the bottle busy. Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.