2022 Chapoutier La Combe Pilate Blanc Viognier, Rhone Valley

A fruity, mellow and refreshing white with aromas of fresh lemons, white peaches and grilled almonds. It’s medium-bodied with fresh acidity. Delicate texture with delicious freshness at the center. White flowers dominate on the finish, with a touch of minerality as well. From biodynamically grown grapes. Drink now.

91 points James Suckling

Michel Chapoutier is one of the Rhône Valley’s great modern figures, taking control of the family business in 1990 and transforming it into a formidable collection of wines from individual sites. Biodynamic farming became central to his philosophy early on, with the aim of allowing soil and site to speak more clearly. La Combe Pilate is part of Chapoutier’s experimental, terroir driven range, taking Viognier away from the richer, more obvious style the variety can sometimes produce.

The fruit comes from biodynamically farmed vineyards in the Rhône, with altitude helping Viognier retain freshness and definition. The 2022 has the variety’s familiar stone fruit and floral perfume, but there is a lovely savoury restraint underneath. It is less about an explosion of apricot and more about texture, spice and mineral freshness, giving it considerably more versatility at the table.

Bright straw gold. White peach, apricot and ripe pear open the nose, followed by honeysuckle, orange blossom and fresh ginger. Fennel and almond add a savoury note, with a faint stony character behind the fruit. The palate is supple and gently rounded, carrying peach and pear through the middle before fresh acidity and citrus peel tighten the shape. Ginger, almond and a touch of spice linger on the dry, textured finish.

Thai grilled prawns with lemongrass, lime and chilli have enough aromatic punch to play with Viognier without overwhelming it. Coconut poached snapper, scallops with ginger, Vietnamese chicken salad or roast cauliflower with tahini and toasted almonds would take it happily in other directions. A little spice at the table brings out the most interesting side of the wine.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2030.