2023 Vincent Girardin Meursault Les Clous, Burgundy

Vincent Girardin began his domaine in Santenay in 1980 with two hectares inherited from his family and steadily expanded across the Côte de Beaune. Since the domaine changed hands in 2011, long time winemaker Eric Germain has remained in charge of the cellar, continuing the move towards restrained oak, precision and wines that allow their individual sites to show clearly. Les Clous is a particularly interesting Meursault because its reputation has always punched above its village classification.

Les Clous sits high on the slope above the village, close to the Premier Cru territory, with thin, limestone rich soils and a cooler exposure. That position tends to produce Chardonnay with more tension and mineral character than the broader, richer stereotype of Meursault. The ripe 2023 vintage gives it enough stone fruit and texture to be generous, while the elevated site keeps the wine focused and energetic.

Pale luminous gold, opening with white peach, pear and Meyer lemon before grapefruit and citrus blossom emerge. Hazelnut and almond meal add the classic Meursault savouriness, joined by crushed limestone and a faint struck flint character. The palate is finely textured rather than heavy, with stone fruit and lemon curd running through bright acidity. Preserved citrus, toasted almond and chalk gradually tighten the wine towards a long, dry finish.

Crab ravioli with brown butter and lemon feels just about perfect. Grilled marron, scallops with cauliflower purée, roast turbot or a leek and Comté tart could take over without upsetting anyone. Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2039.