2023 Vincent Girardin Meursault 1er Cru Les Genevrieres, Burgundy

Another vivid fresh yellow. The nose is agreeable but doesn’t quite show the full character of this vineyard. The oak is a bit more prominent too. Not quite together today, but I sense a huge weight at the back. Fresh bitter almond, says Eric. Herbal lemons, say I. Easy to misjudge this as it shows today, but I suspect all will come through. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Oct 2024

91-94 points Jasper Morris MW

Vincent Girardin began his domaine in Santenay in 1980 with just two hectares inherited from his family, gradually assembling an impressive collection of vineyards across the Côte de Beaune. When the domaine changed hands in 2011, long time winemaker Eric Germain remained in charge, continuing the move towards less intervention, restrained oak and greater transparency. With Genevrières, that lighter touch matters: this is one of Meursault’s great Premier Cru vineyards and hardly needs dressing up.

Les Genevrières sits high on the slope south of Meursault, close to Charmes and Perrières. Its limestone rich soils and excellent drainage typically give Chardonnay a beautiful combination of perfume, silky texture and mineral precision, sitting stylistically between the generosity of Charmes and the steely intensity of Perrières. The ripe 2023 vintage adds flesh to the bones, but Genevrières retains the tension and structure to carry it for many years.

Luminous pale gold, with white peach, nectarine and Meyer lemon followed by pear and citrus blossom. Hazelnut, almond meal and a little brioche emerge with air, joined by crushed limestone and struck flint. The palate is concentrated yet finely sculpted, with ripe stone fruit and lemon curd flowing through a silky texture before bright acidity pulls everything into focus. Preserved citrus, toasted almond and chalky mineral notes stretch across a long, savoury finish.

Grilled marron with lemon and brown butter is difficult to resist here. Turbot with beurre blanc, Hokkaido scallops, crab ravioli or a leek and Comté tart all have enough richness without overwhelming the wine. Cellaring: Drink from 2028 to 2043+.