2023 Vincent Girardin Chassagne Montrachet Morgeot 1er Cru, Burgundy

From 70 year old vines in Les Fairendes. More ruby than purple. An impressive purity to the fruit, with a lifted raspberry and cherry mouthful, firm acidity and some of the white pepper of the vintage that makes one think of whole bunches when they are not there. Drink from 2029-2034. Tasted Oct 2025

90-91 points Jasper Morris MW

Vincent Girardin began his domaine in Santenay in 1980 with just two hectares inherited from his family, eventually building an impressive portfolio across the Côte de Beaune. When the domaine changed ownership in 2011, long time winemaker Eric Germain remained at the helm. His restrained approach to élevage and oak has helped move the wines towards greater precision and transparency, particularly important when working with a vineyard as characterful as Morgeot.

Morgeot is one of Chassagne Montrachet’s largest and most historically important Premier Cru areas, taking its name from the Abbaye de Morgeot. Its deeper clay and limestone soils generally produce Chardonnay with more breadth and muscle than the finer boned vineyards higher on the slope. The 2023 vintage amplifies that generosity, but there is enough acidity and mineral structure underneath to keep the wine beautifully composed.

Bright straw gold, with ripe white peach, nectarine and lemon curd followed by grapefruit and acacia blossom. Hazelnut, almond meal and subtle brioche emerge with air, joined by struck flint and a little chalk. The palate is broad and beautifully textured, with generous stone fruit and citrus wrapped around fresh acidity. Toasted almond, preserved lemon and cool mineral notes gradually tighten the wine before a long, savoury finish.

Roast turbot with a restrained beurre blanc would be superb, while grilled marron, scallops with cauliflower purée, crab ravioli or a leek and Comté tart can comfortably handle Morgeot’s extra breadth. Cellaring: Drink from 2028 to 2042.