2022 Clos Ste Magdeleine Cassis Blanc, Provence

Clos Sainte Magdeleine is one of the great little treasures of the Provençal coast, dramatically positioned on the limestone cliffs of Cassis overlooking the Mediterranean. The Sack Zafiropulo family has cared for the estate for four generations, with Jonathan Sack now guiding the domaine. Farming is organic, and production is tiny. While Provence is overwhelmingly associated with rosé, Cassis is famous for whites, and this is one of the appellation’s benchmark estates.

The vineyards sit on steep limestone terraces almost tumbling into the sea, where intense Mediterranean sunshine is tempered by maritime breezes. Marsanne, Clairette, Ugni Blanc and Bourboulenc traditionally play important roles in Cassis, producing whites with texture, freshness and a distinctive salty character. The 2022 now has a few years behind it, allowing the youthful fruit to broaden into something more savoury and complex.

Bright straw gold with white peach, ripe pear and preserved lemon followed by yellow apple and citrus blossom. Fresh fennel, almond and chamomile add Mediterranean detail, with a subtle beeswax note beginning to emerge. The palate has lovely weight and texture without heaviness, with stone fruit and citrus balanced by fresh acidity. Lemon peel, almond and dried herbs lead into a long, distinctly saline finish.

Bouillabaisse feels almost compulsory, particularly loaded with red mullet, mussels and prawns and served with saffron rouille. Grilled octopus with lemon and fennel, whole roasted snapper, scallops with saffron or zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta would be equally happy. Few wines taste quite so convincingly as though the Mediterranean is only a few metres away.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.