2022 Dm de la Vieille Julienne Vin de France Rouge, Southern Rhone

A classic blend of Rhone red varieties. Biodynamic. Mostly grenache, a lot of syrah, a little less of other expected varieties. This is delicious. It’s not fancy, nor trying to be, but just straight up a wicked drink. Cherry pops, raspberry liquorice, bright acidity, good energy, a little nutty undertow, some faint, sweet herbal lift, a touch of choc-mint too. Good length of flavour, volume of perfume is just-so, the juiciness so damn appealing. Simple, done impeccably.

90 points Mike Bennie, The Wine Front

Domaine de la Vieille Julienne sits in the northern reaches of Châteauneuf du Pape, where the Daumen family has farmed since the early twentieth century. Jean Paul Daumen took over in 1990 and steadily turned the domaine into one of the Southern Rhône’s most admired estates, working organically and biodynamically and favouring low yields, old vines and a restrained hand in the cellar. Even the wines carrying the humble Vin de France designation are approached with the same attention.

The Rouge is built around the traditional red varieties of the Southern Rhône, with Grenache at its heart. The 2022 season was warm and dry, giving generous fruit, but Vieille Julienne’s style is never simply about ripeness. There is freshness, savoury detail and a distinctly Mediterranean personality, making this a very appealing way into the domaine without opening one of its more serious Châteauneuf du Pape bottlings.

Deep ruby with raspberry, black cherry and ripe plum, followed by violet and a touch of blood orange. Liquorice, fennel, rosemary and cracked pepper push through the fruit, joined by black olive and warm earth. The palate is supple and generous, with juicy red and dark fruit, fresh acidity and gently chewy tannins. Cherry, pepper and dried herbs linger on a savoury finish.

Charred eggplant with tomato, chickpeas and tahini suits the wine’s ripe fruit and herbal edge beautifully. Lamb kofta, grilled octopus with paprika, mushroom skewers with rosemary or merguez with couscous would take it happily in other directions. Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.