2024 Dm des Carlines Côtes du Jura Poulsard, Jura

Domaine des Carlines is based in Menétru le Vignoble, close to Château Chalon in the heart of the Jura. It is a small domaine working with the region’s traditional varieties and distinctive limestone and marl soils. After our little identity crisis with the Pinot Noir page, Carlos is sensibly keeping away from unverified names and concentrating on what matters here: Poulsard and the Jura.

Poulsard is one of the region’s most distinctive grapes, naturally producing pale, delicate reds that can look almost like dark rosé yet carry surprising aromatic and savoury complexity. The cool Jura climate suits that lightness beautifully. In 2024, a difficult, relatively cool and wet season, yields were painfully small, but careful growers could produce wines with lovely perfume and freshness.

Very pale ruby garnet and beautifully translucent, with wild strawberry, cranberry and red cherry at first, followed by dried rose, blood orange and hibiscus. White pepper, tea leaf and a touch of damp earth add a more savoury dimension. The palate is featherweight but certainly not flavourless, with tart red berries, brisk acidity and extremely fine tannins. Orange peel and gentle spice linger on a delicate, dry finish.

Try it lightly chilled with charcuterie and cornichons, crispy duck and mushroom dumplings, grilled ocean trout, Comté gougères or a wild mushroom tart. Our pick is the Comté gougères. Warm little cheese puffs and cool Poulsard sounds like an extremely civilised way to lose an afternoon.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2031.