2024 Dm des Carlines Côtes du Jura Pinot Noir, Jura

Domaine des Carlines is based in Menétru le Vignoble, in the heart of the Jura. It is a small domaine with a decidedly Burgundian sensibility, concentrating on individual sites and the distinctive limestone and marl soils that make this tiny region of eastern France so fascinating.

Pinot Noir has a long history in the Jura, and the region’s cool climate gives it a particularly fragrant, fine boned personality. The 2024 vintage was challenging and relatively cool, favouring careful growers and producing reds with freshness rather than excess weight. Here Pinot is about bright fruit, earthy spice and delicate structure, quite removed from the richer expressions found in warmer regions.

Light ruby with a translucent garnet edge, the bouquet is immediately fragrant with sour cherry, wild strawberry and redcurrant. Violet, blood orange and dried rose appear with air, followed by clove, black tea and damp earth. Light to medium bodied, the palate has lovely energy, with tart red cherry and cranberry framed by fine, slightly chalky tannins. Orange peel and earthy spice add complexity before a delicate, savoury finish.

Crispy duck and shiitake dumplings would be terrific, alongside ocean trout with soy and ginger, roast quail with lentils, mushroom and Comté tart or miso glazed eggplant. Our pick is the trout, where the richness of the fish and salty soy meet Pinot’s bright red fruit and earthy edge beautifully.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.