2022 Donnhoff Felsenberg Grosses Gewachs Riesling, Nahe

 Ripe and concentrated, but also quite austere with stacks of spice and grapefruit character; everything from the juice to the pith and zest! A seriously dry riesling, but with moderate acidity. Long crushed rock finish. From organically grown grapes with Fair'n Green certification. Drink or hold.

95 points Stuart Pigott jamessuckling.com

The fruit comes from the best steep parcels around Dönnhoff's Felsentürmchen in the midst of the magnificent Schlossböckelheimer Felsenberg site. It's outstanding Riesling terroir with a soil of red volcanic igneous rock, a melange of porphyry and melaphyr. Fermented and matured in stainless steel vats and classic oak barrels. A great dry Riesling, very complex, displaying great, smoky crystallised minerality with a flinty character.

The Dönnhoff Felsenberg Grosses Gewächs Riesling from the Nahe region of Germany is a breathtaking example of dry Riesling, crafted by one of Germany’s most revered producers. Helmut Dönnhoff and his son Cornelius oversee this family estate, which has been making wines of extraordinary quality for over 250 years. The Felsenberg vineyard is classified as a "Grosses Gewächs" site, denoting its status as one of Germany’s finest terroirs.

The Felsenberg vineyard, located near Schlossböckelheim, is characterized by its steep slopes and volcanic soils. These unique conditions contribute to the wine’s intensity, minerality, and remarkable depth. The Riesling grapes are meticulously hand-harvested at perfect ripeness, ensuring only the best fruit is used for this prestigious wine.

In the glass, the wine exhibits a bright straw-yellow color with hints of green. The nose is complex and layered, with aromas of ripe peach, apricot, and lime zest, complemented by floral notes of white blossom and a striking minerality reminiscent of wet slate and flint.

On the palate, the Felsenberg Grosses Gewächs is powerful yet elegant, displaying a seamless interplay of ripe stone fruit, citrus, and a saline minerality. Its vibrant acidity provides structure and balance, while the wine’s texture is rich and concentrated. The finish is exceptionally long and precise, leaving an impression of purity and finesse.

This Riesling is a perfect companion to dishes such as grilled seafood, roast pork, or dishes with creamy sauces. It also pairs beautifully with lightly spiced Asian cuisine. While approachable in its youth, the Dönnhoff Felsenberg Grosses Gewächs has the potential to age gracefully for 15-20 years, developing additional complexity over time.