2023 Donnhoff Felsenberg Grosses Gewachs Riesling, Nahe

Radically smoky and massively structured in spite of being only medium-bodied, this astonishingly dry riesling expresses the personality of this volcanic site with great authority and precision. So much spice, structure and hardness in the positive sense, meaning that this is not a wine for the faint of heart. Massive power in the imposing finish, yet absolutely clean and bright. Drink or hold.

98 points jamessuckling.com

Dönnhoff Felsenberg Grosses Gewächs Riesling from the Nahe is one of Germany’s most thrilling dry Rieslings, a wine that combines volcanic minerality, laser precision and extraordinary ageing potential. It comes from the steep, terraced slopes of the Felsenberg vineyard, a VDP-classified Grosse Lage (grand cru) site that sits on weathered porphyry and volcanic soils above the Nahe River. These soils, coupled with the site’s sunny, south-facing exposure, give the wine its signature smoky, flinty character and electric energy.

Helmut Dönnhoff and his son Cornelius are regarded as among the finest Riesling producers in the world, with a winemaking philosophy rooted in meticulous vineyard work and a light touch in the cellar. Fruit for the Felsenberg GG is hand-harvested at perfect ripeness, whole-bunch pressed, and fermented slowly with ambient yeasts in large German oak casks. This traditional approach preserves purity and texture while allowing the wine to develop a subtle creaminess alongside its mineral core.

In the glass, the Felsenberg GG is pale gold with aromas of lemon zest, white peach, crushed slate and smoky flint, lifted by hints of wild herbs and white flowers. The palate is tense and focused, with a fine, chiselled structure, mouthwatering acidity and layers of citrus, green apple and saline minerality. The volcanic soils speak clearly here, giving a savoury, almost smoky depth that lingers long on the finish.

This is a wine that is spellbinding in youth but truly remarkable with age. Over 10 to 20 years, it will gain layers of honey, chamomile and toasted almond while retaining its vivid freshness.

Pair it with grilled lobster, sashimi, or a delicate goat cheese tart. Decant when young to let the aromatics unfurl.