2022 Francois Chidaine Montlouis Les Choisilles, Loire Valley

The 2022 Montlouis-sur-Loire Les Choisilles is particularly flamboyant in this vintage. It opens with a vivid bouquet of exotic fruits, ripe pear, flowers, spices and a subtle touch of reduction. Medium- to full-bodied, it is concentrated and fleshy, framed by a delicate thread of gastronomic bitterness that lends tension and complexity. The finish is long, deep and layered.

94 points, Yohan Castaing, The Wine Advocate 

From one of Montlouis’ more limestone driven sites, Les Choisilles leans toward a tighter, more mineral expression of Chenin Blanc, and François Chidaine captures that precision beautifully. Farmed biodynamically and handled with minimal intervention, the focus here is on clarity, tension and a strong sense of place rather than overt richness.

The 2022 vintage brings both concentration and line. Aromatics are finely detailed, green apple, quince and pear with a lift of lemon zest and a hint of grapefruit. There is a subtle floral note and the beginnings of honey and beeswax, alongside a chalky, stony edge that gives the wine its shape.

On the palate it is medium bodied with a firm, driving acidity that carries the wine from start to finish. The texture is lightly waxy but taut, with orchard fruit moving into more savoury territory, almond, spice and a faint saline note. The finish is long, clean and mineral, tightening up beautifully at the end.

Chidaine’s winemaking remains hands off and precise, native ferment, careful élevage and no unnecessary handling, allowing the vineyard to speak clearly.

This is a brilliant match for seafood with freshness and bite. Think oysters with a sharp mignonette, sashimi with citrus, or grilled sardines with lemon and olive oil. It also works beautifully with dishes like salt cod fritters, prawn and chilli pasta, or a simple potato and herb tortilla, the wine’s acidity cutting through and lifting everything.

Drinking well now with some air, it will reward patience over the next ten to fifteen years, developing more honeyed, nutty and savoury complexity while holding its line.