2022 Giacomo Brezza Barolo Sarmassa, Piedmont

This is one of the wines most tightly associated with the Brezza family tradition. The organic 2022 Barolo Sarmassa shows a hint more power and concentration (certainly when compared to the more ethereal Cannubi) with blackcurrant, a subtle mineral edge of crushed stone, pressed violet and lilac. Drawn from vines as old as 85 years and bottled in an edition of 6,003 bottles plus 212 magnums, the wine faithfully reflects the character of this historic site in Barolo, generally recognized for its structure. The alcohol content reaches 15%, but Nebbiolo's elegance still stands tall. In fact, the wine's defining characteristic is its balance between richness and restraint. I especially like the tight, well-constructed nature of this wine and the way its structure frames the fruit without overwhelming it.

95 points Monica Larner, The Wine Advocate

Sarmassa shows a more powerful side of Brezza than the fragrant elegance of Cannubi. The family has grown vines around Barolo since the nineteenth century and began bottling under its own name in 1910. Still family run and committed to organic farming and traditional winemaking, Brezza has become particularly admired for allowing its individual vineyards to retain their own personalities rather than forcing them into a house style.

The Sarmassa cru lies just west of the village of Barolo, with calcareous clay and marl giving Nebbiolo considerably more structure and depth. Brezza’s holdings include old vines, and Sarmassa typically has darker fruit and firmer tannins than Cannubi. In the hot, dry 2022 vintage, that natural structure is an asset, providing the framework needed to carry the season’s ripe fruit without losing Barolo’s essential savoury character.

Deep garnet ruby, with Morello cherry, dark cherry and redcurrant leading into rose and violet. Blood orange provides aromatic lift before liquorice, fennel, tobacco and black tea take things in a darker direction. The palate has real presence, with concentrated cherry and raspberry framed by firm, chalky tannins. Anise, orange peel and earthy spice build through the middle, followed by tobacco and a faint ferrous note on the long, dry finish.

Braised beef cheek with porcini and polenta would be superb, alongside duck with chestnuts, veal agnolotti with sage butter, lamb shoulder with rosemary or grilled radicchio with taleggio. Our pick is the agnolotti. Soft pasta, savoury veal and brown butter have enough richness for Sarmassa while leaving its perfume intact.

Cellaring: Best from 2030 to 2047+.