2022 Giacomo Brezza Barolo Cannubi, Piedmont

Fourth-generation Enzo Brezza has long been at the helm, and his wines are unwaveringly linear and firm. The 2022 Cannubi does not stray, but it is perhaps a bit more forthcoming in its youth. Alluring aromas of rose, violet and peony are pure and deep. More characteristically discreet, the palate eventually opens to raspberry and brambles as well as salty, salivating minerals. Tannins are more rigid than supple, but ultimately on the right side of dryness. This will need food and a bit more time in bottle.

94 points Decanter

Cannubi is one of the historic names of Barolo, a long, gently sloping hill immediately above the village whose reputation predates the modern Barolo appellation itself. Brezza has deep roots here, with the family growing vines since the nineteenth century and bottling wine under its own name since 1910. Today the estate remains family run and committed to a traditional, organic approach. Cannubi is one of its most important wines, combining the perfume of Nebbiolo with a particularly graceful expression of Barolo structure.

Cannubi occupies a privileged meeting point between different geological formations, with sand, silt and marl contributing to wines known more for fragrance and finesse than brute force. That becomes especially interesting in the hot, exceptionally dry 2022 vintage. The site’s naturally elegant personality helps temper the year’s richness, giving a Barolo that has concentration without losing the aromatic detail that makes Cannubi so seductive.

Luminous garnet ruby, with wild strawberry, Morello cherry and redcurrant followed by rose, violet and blood orange. Fennel seed, liquorice and black tea appear with air, then a little tobacco and warm earth. The palate is beautifully poised, with sweet red cherry and orange peel carried by fresh acidity and finely chalky tannins. Anise and tea provide savoury detail before a long, fragrant finish that feels composed rather than muscular.

Tajarin with porcini and brown butter would be superb, alongside roast quail with chestnuts, veal with sage, duck and mushroom agnolotti or grilled radicchio with taleggio and hazelnuts. Our pick is the quail, where its delicate richness and earthy chestnuts suit Cannubi’s fragrant, finely structured personality beautifully.

Cellaring: Best from 2029 to 2045+.