2022 Helen's Hill First Light Reserve Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

As the label states: single vineyard, single clone. All MV6 planted 40 years ago on an eastern-facing slope. Medium ruby red. This has an old-vine creaminess on the nose with its aromas of red cherry, raspberry and complex briary notes. Excellent depth on the beautifully structured and long palate. A class act from the first and a wine that will continue to shine for at least the next five to seven years.

97 points Special Value Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Helen’s Hill First Light Reserve Pinot Noir is a serious, small-parcel release from one of the Yarra Valley’s most picturesque and elevated vineyards. The name “First Light” refers to the estate’s unique east-facing slope that catches the morning sun before much of the valley wakes—ideal for Pinot Noir, which thrives on cool-climate conditions and gentle ripening. This is a wine that reflects both place and patience, crafted from select blocks of the oldest vines on the property, with low yields and a resolutely hands-on approach.

Winemaker Scott McCarthy works with minimal intervention to preserve the vineyard’s expression, relying on wild ferments, whole berry inclusion and French oak maturation to build nuance without weight. This reserve cuvée sees longer barrel ageing and comes from barrels deemed exceptional in both structure and complexity. The result is a wine of finesse and depth, made in the spirit of Burgundy but grounded in the red volcanic soils of Coldstream.

In the glass, the First Light Reserve offers a beautifully layered nose of dark cherry, raspberry, wild strawberry and blood plum, laced with dried rose petals, crushed herbs, sandalwood and a hint of forest floor. The palate is medium-bodied, silky and refined, with fine-boned tannins, tangy acidity and an earthy savoury core that lingers long after the fruit. There's a lovely push and pull between brightness and depth, with each sip revealing more complexity.

This is a Pinot made for slow meals and good glassware. Think duck confit with cherry glaze, grilled quail, porcini risotto, or roast beetroot and goat cheese salad. It can be decanted when young but will evolve gracefully over 8 to 12 years in the cellar.

Critics and Pinot lovers alike have sung its praises for its balance, poise and sense of place. It captures that elusive Yarra Valley Pinot character—both delicate and grounded, expressive yet restrained. Helen’s Hill has quietly built a reputation for producing some of the valley’s most honest, characterful wines, and this reserve release sits confidently among the region’s top-tier Pinots.