2024 Giant Steps Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

From the Applejack vineyard, planted on grey clay soils at 300m in Gladysdale in '97 by Ray Guerin. 40% whole bunches and 40% less wine in '24. Darkly fruited and more intense than the '23 with aromas of wild blackberry, raspberry, briar, and just a hint of sous bois. On the palate, this is as concentrated and mouth-filling as the bouquet suggests it will be, culminating with succulent, grippy tannins on the long, tapering finish. It's a touch more 'sauvage' and a little less floral than normal but, even in this warmer vintage, one of Australia's most celebrated pinot noirs is in impressive form.

98 points Special Value Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Giant Steps’ Applejack Vineyard Pinot Noir is one of those wines that sits comfortably in the pantheon of Australian greats, often spoken about with the same reverence as the legendary Burgundy sites that inspired it. Applejack Vineyard itself is a jewel of the Upper Yarra, planted at 300 metres above sea level in the red volcanic soils near Gladysdale. The vineyard was established in 1997 and named after the orchardist who originally farmed the land, a nod to the Yarra’s fruit-growing heritage. Its altitude and cooler microclimate make it a perfect site for Pinot Noir, producing wines of aromatic lift, purity and finesse.

Steve Flamsteed, the long-time winemaker at Giant Steps, and now alongside chief winemaker Melanie Chester, has turned this vineyard into a benchmark for single-site Pinot Noir in Australia. Their philosophy is very much about allowing site expression to shine through: minimal intervention, wild ferments, whole-bunch inclusion where it suits the vintage, and sensitive oak that frames without dominating. The result is a wine of haunting beauty and complexity.

Previous vintages has been described by critics as “Pinot of the Year,” a testament to the way it captures the essence of the site. Perfume is a hallmark here: violets, wild strawberry, cranberry and blood orange peel, all laced with hints of spice and undergrowth. The palate is taut and precise, carried by fine, chalky tannins and a core of pure red fruit. There’s tension and energy throughout, with the kind of length that makes you stop mid-conversation just to take it all in.

For food, it begs for something refined yet earthy. Duck with cherries, mushroom risotto, or chargrilled quail are perfect matches. For a more casual approach, it’s sublime with wood-fired pizza topped with prosciutto and rocket. Cellaring will reward patience: while it is seductive now, the structure and energy mean it will evolve beautifully over the next decade or more, gaining layers of forest floor and truffle with time.