2022 Heymann-Löwenstein Uhlen Roth Lay Grosses Gewächs, Mosel

Löwenstein's intensely yellow colored 2022 Uhlen Roth Lay GG today shows an open nose that is slightly oaky and reminiscent of overripe bananas but also slate. It is creamy and sweetish on the palate but rather bitter on the finish and, therefore, structurally rather short acting. No energy and heavy clothes. This is disappointing if representative. Tasted at the Vorpremiere VDP.Grosses Gewächs in Wiesbaden in August 2023.

89 points robertparker.com

Heymann-Löwenstein Uhlen Roth Lay Grosses Gewächs is one of the most profound and philosophical expressions of dry Riesling in the world. Sourced from the steep, terraced Roth Lay parcel of the Uhlen vineyard in the Lower Mosel, this wine showcases the remarkable power of slate, time, and patient, uncompromising winemaking.

Reinhard Löwenstein, the visionary behind the estate, has long pushed against the boundaries of tradition, helping redefine what Mosel Riesling can be. He farms organically on vertiginous slopes, and each Grosses Gewächs bottling comes from a microsite within Uhlen, each named for its geological nuance. Roth Lay is dominated by red clay and iron-rich slate—unique in a region typically known for its blue slate—and imparts a deep, earthy minerality and serious structure to the wine.

In the glass, Uhlen Roth Lay GG is intense, brooding and textural. Aromas lean toward flint, smoky crushed rocks, wild herbs and ripe orchard fruits. The palate is commanding, dense and dry, with layers of citrus oil, yellow plum, fennel, and saline-laced minerality. Its acidity is taut but beautifully integrated, ensuring decades of aging potential. This is Riesling with the gravitas of a Grand Cru white Burgundy, yet it is utterly Mosel.

This wine is best decanted if drunk young and pairs well with rich seafood (think grilled lobster with tarragon butter), pork belly, or truffled root vegetable dishes. It also rewards long-term cellaring, gaining complexity, wild spice, and savoury depth over 10–20 years.