2022 Hickinbotham Clarendon The Revivalist Merlot, McLaren Vale

From two blocks planed in 1976 and 1989. Crushed fruit, ambient ferment, with 16 days on skins; matured in French barriques (60% new) and foudre for 12 months. Merlot has had a tough trot in this country, but Californian winemaker Chris Carpenter is well schooled in the ways of the grape. This harnesses a more rounded fruit profile, but also with proper linear tannins and drive. It’s a relatively elegant expression, though with a depth of plum and mulberry, subtle florals, graphite, roasted hazelnut and a balanced gloss of classy oak.

95 points Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Hickinbotham Clarendon Vineyard’s The Revivalist Merlot is a fine example of how McLaren Vale’s elevated Clarendon subregion can produce Merlot of real depth, structure, and elegance. The Hickinbotham site was originally planted in 1971 and quickly became a source of high-quality fruit for some of Australia’s most iconic wines before the estate began bottling under its own label. Sitting between 60 and 200 metres above sea level, the vineyard benefits from cooler temperatures than the lower parts of McLaren Vale, along with a mix of ancient clay, sand, and ironstone soils. These conditions give Merlot a longer ripening period, allowing it to develop vibrant aromatics and refined tannins while retaining freshness.

The Revivalist is crafted from select parcels of old-vine Merlot, hand-picked at optimal ripeness and fermented in small open fermenters to allow gentle extraction. Maturation takes place in fine French oak, with a portion of new barrels to enhance structure and complexity without overshadowing the fruit.

In the glass, it is deep garnet with a purple rim. The bouquet offers rich aromas of black cherry, plum, and mulberry, supported by notes of cocoa, cedar, and a touch of bay leaf. The palate is medium to full-bodied yet finely balanced, delivering juicy dark fruit wrapped in silky tannins, with hints of mocha, dried herbs, and savoury spice unfolding across a long, elegant finish. There’s a freshness and lift that reflects Clarendon’s cooler mesoclimate, setting it apart from broader, plusher McLaren Vale styles.

It pairs beautifully with dishes such as roast lamb with rosemary, beef fillet with red wine jus, duck with cherry glaze, or mushroom and lentil ragù. While delicious now for its plush fruit and polished texture, it has the concentration and balance to cellar for 10–12 years, gaining more savoury depth and complexity over time.