2024 Welkin by Aphelion Grenache, McLaren Vale

Half from Blewitt Springs (80-year-old vines) and half further south; 20% whole bunch, with 10 months in seasoned oak. As always, a clear bottle and a pale hue, speaking to application perhaps. And yes, immediacy seems the remit, the wine bright and forward, but thoughtfully so. It's spicy and zippy, sans confection, filigreed in texture, with a sour-fruited, rhubarb-laced tension adding complexity, a graphite mineral note elevating further. This fits the – sometimes tiresome – warm-climate pinot noir comparison, but it also shouts grenache, the arriviste that we should all be paying more attention to. A delight.

93 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Welkin by Aphelion Grenache is a striking example of McLaren Vale’s affinity with Grenache, crafted with precision by Rob and Louise Mack, the duo behind Aphelion. The “Welkin” label is all about vibrancy and early approachability, capturing Grenache in a pure, juicy, and expressive form without losing its sense of place.

The fruit is sourced from old vines across select McLaren Vale sites, each contributing something unique—red sandy soils lend perfume and lift, while deeper clays bring richness and weight. Rob Mack, who has built a reputation as one of the region’s brightest young winemakers, ferments Welkin Grenache with a portion of whole bunches to enhance fragrance and spice, before maturing it in seasoned French oak to keep the fruit front and centre.

In the glass it bursts with red cherries, raspberries, pomegranate, and lifted florals, accented by hints of star anise and white pepper. The palate is silky yet energetic, with fine tannins and a line of acidity that keeps it fresh and food friendly. It’s a modern Grenache that speaks to McLaren Vale’s shift toward lighter, more elegant styles, while still carrying the generosity the region is famous for.

For food pairings, Welkin Grenache is versatile: think chargrilled lamb skewers, duck breast with cherry glaze, or even a spiced beetroot and walnut salad. It shines in both casual and more refined settings, making it a wine you can reach for again and again. Cellar potential sits around 5–7 years, though its charm is immediate.